The thoughts, sewing projects, and fabric oglings of a dedicated sewist.

Free Sewing Tutorial: Draft a Cowl Neck

4/19/12
UPDATE: I added a tutorial for drafting a facing for a cowl neck top here.

UPDATE: You can find a tutorial for the deeper cowl neck here.

I have a simple t-shirt/shell pattern that works well for me but I have enough basic tops - I want something fancier!  I love the high cowl neck look that is going around these days: 

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DKNY from macys.com
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LRK from saksfifthavenue.com

I wanted to make this look without having to shell out money for a new pattern and I couldn't find a free tutorial online that was really what I wanted.  So I hid out in my sewing lab and figured it out!  I use a lot of online tutorials in my sewing so I'm always happy when I have something to share with all of you.  Here's what I created:




Materials
*1 - 1.5 yards of drapey fabric with stretch (jersey, knit, stretch charmeuse, maybe even stretch poplin)
*Tracing paper (I use Bienfang Canary Sketching and Tracing Paper, the 50 yard/24" roll)
*Clear ruler
*Top/bodice pattern that you like (if you don't have one, there are plenty of tutorials online that will show you how to create a pattern from a t-shirt or top that you have in your closet, like this one).

Step 1:  Cut & spread neckline
Trace your front bodice/t-shirt pattern onto a new sheet a paper; you need to cut the pattern so you don't want to ruin your master.  Draw a curved line under the neckline, 1.5 inches down from the original.  Cut along this line until you are about 1/8 inch from the shoulder line.

Draw two lines that meet at a right angle on a new sheet of paper.  Place your cut pattern piece along the top line on this piece of paper.  Spread the neckline so that both points touch the top line.  Angle the remaining bodice so that the bottom center front corner touches the side line.  Tape into place.  This sounds harder than it is so don't fret!  It should look like this:


Smooth out the angle created at the shoulder line:



Step 2: Turn half pattern into full pattern
You need to cut on a bias for this design, so you will need a full instead of a half pattern.  Take a big piece of tracing paper and draw a T with lines meeting a right angles.  Trace your half cowl neck pattern onto one side of the T and then flip and trace it onto the other.  It should look like this when you are done:


It looks a bit odd, doesn't it?  Trust me, it works!  Imagine that super wide neckline draping in the middle because this is what will happen.  (Ignore the wide band in the middle of my pattern piece - my tracing paper wasn't large enough so I had to tape two pieces together with masking tape.) 

Draw a new grainline that is at a 45 degree angle to the center line.

Step 3: Place and cut your fabric
Spread out your fabric.  Place the front pattern piece on the bias and the back pattern piece on the straight grain.  It will look like this:



Cut and sew the top as you would normally.  I have left the edges serged and turned them under by 1/4" and topstitched them into place - your choice.  I added a band to the bottom for this top but you could do a simple hem or leave the hem unfinished.  However you finish it you now get to glow with pride everytime you wear it because you drafted the pattern and put it together on your own!






I also drafted a cowl neck from a pattern that had a bodice dart which made for a deeper cowl.  I'll post instructions for how to do this if there's interest - leave a comment if you want it!



Credit:  I generally followed instructions I found in Adele Margolis' book Make Your Own Dress Patterns.  I strongly recommend this book if you are interested in learning about drafting patterns.
32 comments on "Free Sewing Tutorial: Draft a Cowl Neck"
  1. I really like the print on the blouse and I can follow your tutorial even though I'm a novice. Thanks!

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  2. Thanks, Germania! I hope you give it a try. And I bought 5 yards of that print at a thrift store for next-to-nothing so I'd be happy to give you a piece!

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  3. Great Job- Thanks for the tutorial :)
    Shannon

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  4. Thanks, Shannon! And I'm happy to now know about your blog, too!

    Lisa

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  5. Thanks, Shannon! And I'm happy to now know about your blog, too!

    Lisa

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  6. I just bought a top like this yesterday! I am large busted and I like the way this cut minimizes the emphasis of my bust without adding weight elsewhere..I will definitely try this pattern this week.Thank you for sharing your knowledge and gift so generously!
    Karen

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  7. That is so funny Karen - I like this style because I am small busted and I like that I can have a fitted top that doesn't emphasize my smallness!

    Let me know how it goes!

    Lisa

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  8. Please do post the instructions for the cowl neck with the dart; love the other one too! I am going to try it

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  9. Beautiful shirt! I'd love to see the tutorial for the deeper cowl neck. I have some fabric that I have been trying to dream up a use for and I think the deeper cowl would be perfect. Thanks for the idea!

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  10. Thank you! You can find the tutorial for the deeper cowl neck here: http://poldapop.blogspot.com/2012/05/free-sewing-tutorial-draft-deep-cowl.html

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  11. Thank you so much you angel! I am large busted and I think this will be a good pattern for me.

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  12. Thank you for posting this! I've been thinking of buying a pattern for this, but now I can just modify my tnt tee pattern. You saved me $$--thank-you!

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  13. Thanks, Wendy! If you make it, I'd love to see a photo. You can send it to poldapop@gmail.com.

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  14. HI am trying to make a fairly deep cowl neck on the back of one of the 5 bridesmaid dresses I am making, will try your pattern above but anything else I should watch out for? please.

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    1. Hi - Did you see that I have a tutorial for a deeper cowl neck? Go to this post: http://www.poldapop.com/2012/05/free-sewing-tutorial-draft-deep-cowl.html. If you wanted to make it even deeper, I think you could just draw more than one slash/spread line in Step 2 Good luck! And I'd love to post the picture of your finished dress!

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  15. Have you posted the tutorial for a deeper cowl neck, I would love to make one!

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    1. Hi, Kika - You can find a tutorial for the deeper cowl neck here: http://poldapop.blogspot.com/2012/05/free-sewing-tutorial-draft-deep-cowl.html

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  16. You have made this pattern drafting so easy! Thanks!

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  17. Best and simplest tutorial I got on the net on cowl neck. Very simple to understand. Thanks angel

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    1. Thanks, Anon! That's the best compliment I've received on this!

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  18. Thank you so much for this. I'm making an Artemis costume and have been looking for a pattern for a drapped neck. This is perfect.

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    1. Good luck and please post a photo of your costume - I'd love to see it!

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  19. Hi!
    Thanks for the tutorial. Just one question: why the front piece should be laid on bias?

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    1. Hi, Kati - Thanks for checking out my tutorial. You don't have to place the front piece on the bias, but your cowl will be more drapey if you do. I've cut it both ways (on grain and on bias) and I like the results both ways. The cowl is a bit higher and less drapey on grain, but it somewhat depends on the fabric you are using. I suggest making a couple of tops and experimenting to see which way works best for you. Good luck, and please post a link to any photos!

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  20. Thanks for the tutorial! I'm glad people like you take the time to prepare and share this stuff so generously! (What did people do before the internet?) ;)

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  21. Thanks for the tutorial! I'm glad people like you take the time to prepare and share this stuff so generously! (What did people do before the internet?) ;)

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    1. You are so welcome, Natalie! I hope you have success with it and I'd love to see the results!

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  22. Hoy 8/12/15 encontré este tutorial y, aunque tengo nociones de costura me refresco la memoria con ese cuello gracias y feliz navidad

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  23. Love it. Just adjusted a pattern with your adjustments and finished my first cowls neck and it looks amazing. Thanks for the great tutorial!!

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  24. Muy bonitos quiero aserme una delas blusas puedo siguirla en yutoo porfa

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