The thoughts, sewing projects, and fabric oglings of a dedicated sewist.

What's Up: Vogue 8764 with Joel Dewberry Heirloom Fabrics, Matching Prints Across Seams, Fabric Delivery

I finished Linda's dress last night, staying up a little later than I should because I was oh-so-close to the end.  This was a fun dress to make because Linda chose such lovely fabric and because I got to try out three new techniques with it.

As I mentioned last week, the muslin fit almost perfectly.  I went down a size from Linda's measurements because the finished garment measurements looked too big at the size her measurements said she should wear (I find that the major pattern companies provide a lot - too much - ease in their sizing).  I decided to just put in a touch more width in the back and sleeves to make the dress a bit more comfortable.  To do this, I used Lorraine Henry's method of pattern alteration to add width to the back.  I took a class from her at the Sewing Expo and adding width to the back is one of the fitting issues she covered, and I was happy to get to use it so soon.  I watched the Peggy Sagers webcast on sleeves (March 19 show) to learn how to insert a larger sleeve into a smaller bodice (pretty simple - just trace the larger armhole size onto the smaller bodice).  And then I used the lapped seam technique from Threads #153 (March 2011) to match the fabric print across the center front seam in the bodice.

The main fabric is Joel Dewberry Heirloom Empire Weave Garnet and contrast band is his Heirloom Ribbon Lattice Fushia.  I'll put up a full-length photo once I get Linda in the dress as the dress looks much better on than it does just hanging around.  UPDATE: And here it is!!!

I'm excited to finally learn how to properly match prints across a seam and annoyed that I didn't learn this sooner as it's pretty simple, though time consuming, to do.  I've been thinking about when I'll do this.  I don't want to do it with every seam because I'd have to charge a lot more for my work and it wastes fabric.  And I've found that most people don't notice this because RTW clothing doesn't match across seams most of the time.  I'm thinking that I'll do it when I think it really matters, like on the front of a bodice or the center back seam for a skirt with a big print, like the skirt I'm working on for Bryn:

I love this Amy Butler print (Lotus Wall Flower in Cherry) and I wish it was available in more colors (it does come in other colors, but this is the only one I really like).  I used some of the scraps from Bryn's skirt to make this flower pin for Miss Cindy, the woman who runs the in-home daycare that Maisey and Cora attended before I left my job (the one I did for an actual company, instead of the many jobs I do now for my business and my babies).  I used the Kanzashi flower tutorial I found online at Live Creatively Now.

I cut the circles out while the girls finished breakfast and put it together while they watched an episode of The Jetsons, and that included the time I spent dithering over which button to use!

And, finally, I got a big box of fabric from before we went to Michigan for Easter.  How I love getting boxes of fabric!  From the top you see Joel Dewberry Tile Flourish in Amber (skirt for Marides), Amy Butler light olive, Amy Butler Midwest Modern II Fresh Poppies in Ivory (another dress for Jen), orange cotton jersey, Amy Butler Midwest Modern II Fresh Poppies in Sky (bias tape for Marides 2nd skirt), navy brushed twill (main fabric for Marides 2nd skirt), zebra jersey, metallic steel jersey, and black jersey.  I have my work cut out for me!  I found the jersey fabric in the clearance section and it will all be used in my ongoing experiments with knit and jersey fabric. 

This week I plan to work on Domenica's and Bryn's skirts and hopefully find time to make up a top for myself with my new jersey fabric.  I'm going out with my friend Candice tomorrow night (we decided that we needed to go somewhere not kid friendly, where we could wear heels and make-up and drink cocktails) and I'd love to have a new top to show off!

Hi-ho!  Have a good week!
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