Style Arc Darla Peplum Top

Yep, more pattern hacking going on in my sewing studio! In my last hack, I took a top pattern and made a dress, and for this one I'm doing the reverse. I took Style Arc's Darla dress and turned it into a peplum top!

This was partly done out of necessity. I really loved this fabric combo but I didn't have enough of the polka dot to make a dress without more piecing than I wanted to take on.

Rayon double knit from GorgeousFabrics.com and magenta polka dot from GirlCharlee.com

And I also love peplum tops - perfect for those of use who need a little waist definition. To make the peplum, I traced off the top 10 inches of the skirt pieces from the Darla pattern as I wanted to continue the color block through the peplum. I divided each piece into two or three sections, and did a slash and spread, adding 2 inches to each spread.

Center Front and Side Front pieces - I did a slash and spread and
then traced off the new pieces.

I'm going to write a review on PatternReview.com with changes to the facing instructions based on my experience and the help that I received from Anne at The Clothing Engineer. I also want to give a shout out to Chloe at Style Arc. She listened to my feedback and is going to change the instructions - how's that for good customer service!

I also wanted to go through my thinking on color blocking this pattern. The other versions I've seen all have the contrast color at the shoulder yoke as well as center back & front. I opted to not have the contrast fabric at the shoulder yoke as I was pretty sure this would emphasize my shoulders, and I try to downplay them as they are the widest part of my body. I think using the contrast fabric at the shoulder would be a great option for ladies with a narrow upper body who want to balance wider hips.

Next up in personal sewing is the Style Arc Marni Ponti Jacket. The fabric I have picked out will look perfect with this top and I'll have a nice combo for Spring.

Speaking of Spring, this is what I saw when I looked out the window this morning:

Luckily all this snow melted off by late morning and we might actually get a little taste of spring today!

Jalie 2921 - Top to Dress

I was very pleased with this dress when I first finished it, but now I'm not so sure.

I love the fabric - Italian Rayon Double Knit in Rhumba red from GorgeousFabrics.com.  It feels great, nice stretch and recovery, and a beautiful deep red color.  My regret is that I didn't make the skirt more flared when I did the whole slash and spread.

I was going for the Lady Skater look but with the Jalie 2921 top, but I kinda skimped on the spread, I think. It's wearable, but when I make this again I think I'll use a 1/2 or 3/4 circle for the skirt to give myself more twirl.

Meh twirl

So here's how I hacked the Jalie 2921 pattern to make the dress:

First, after making the magenta top, I figured out where I wanted the waist to be and then measured down from the bottom of the armscye to know where to mark on the pattern.  I then copied this onto a separate sheet of pattern paper and added an extra 3/8 in the side seams (the double knit wasn't as stretchy as the magenta fabric, but I didn't actually need it - I ended up taking the top back in once I tried it on).

Back

Front

Close up of front

I took my trusty Sew U Home Stretch skirt and made a copy of the front and back.  I then added four lines for spreading (so five sections total) onto the copy.

I then cut up the lines leaving 1/4" intact near the waist.  I spread each section 1 1/4 inches apart and then taped the sections in place on my cutting mat.

I placed a new sheet of paper over the top and traced out the new pattern.

And then I sewed up the bodice and the skirt and joined them at the waist.

It's fine, just not quite my vision.  Luckily, I've got enough knit fabric in my stash to try again!!

And I include these photos just for fun.  I've been experimenting with taking pictures while I'm moving (I set my camera to take five photos on the self-timer) because a good friend told me I look better in motion.  This has given me some better shots, but also some really silly ones!

Invisible hands!

Not sure what I was going for with this look . . .

Next week I'll have the Vogue 8379 wrap dress to show you that I made for a client.  I like it so much that now I want one for myself!

Free Sewing Tutorial: Curvy Color Block Ponte Knit Pencil Skirt

After the disappointment of the Elisalex dress, I wanted to sew something that would cheer me up.  I'm going back to the Elisalex dress soon (I will not be vanquished by thee, Madam Elisalex!), but in the meantime, sewing with knit/jersey fabric is fast, easy to fit, and (usually) highly satisfying.

I love making variations on my TNT patterns.  I consider the patterns in Sew U Home Stretch my knit block patterns, as they are simple, I know they fit, and they are easy to draft from for making variations.  I'm working on a woven dress block so that I can draft variations there, too, but I'm still perfecting the muslin.  But my knit block pattern was all I needed for this project. 

So, please meet THE CURVY COLOR BLOCK KNIT PENCIL SKIRT!!

I based this design on my corsetted pencil skirt, which has been really popular with clients (I think I've now made this skirt for five different people).

And because I like y'all so much, I'm going to show you how to do it.

TUTORIAL

Supplies
Knit skirt block with waistband
2 or 3-inch elastic
Ballpoint/stretch sewing needle
Tracing/drafting paper (you need to see through it)
Medium to heavy weight knit fabric - I used two ponte knits from GorgeousFabrics.com
Lining fabric (optional - I used a knit tricot)
Seam gauge or measuring tape
Ruler

Draft Color Block Skirt
STEP 1: If you don't have this marked already, modify your skirt block to a pencil skirt.  I have a mini-tutorial on this here.

STEP 2: Take pencil skirt front pattern piece and place marks 3 inches in from the side seam all the way down to the hip line. UPDATE: For larger sizes, I have found that it's best to measure in thirds. You want the color block inset to take up about two-third of the skirt. On your quarter-block, measure across the waist and hip lines. Divide these numbers into thirds. So if my quarter-waist measurement is 8, I would place a mark about 2.75 inches in from the side seam at the waist. If my quarter-hip measurement is 11, I would place a mark at 3.75 inches from the side seam at the hip.

STEP 2: Place a mark 5-6 inches in from the side seam at the hem (remember to mark in from the pencil skirt line if you have simply drawn that on top on your regular block).  Using a ruler or other straight edge, draw a line between this mark and the 3-inch mark at the hip line.

STEP 3: Connect dots, smoothing out line at the hip.  Feel free to play with the line to make it more curvy or straight. If you have a French curve or hip curve, use it!

STEP 4: Repeat with pencil skirt back.  Your skirt blocks should now look like this:

STEP 5: Use tracing paper to trace your four new pattern pieces (center front, side front, center back, side back).  Make sure to add a grainline on the side front and side back pieces.  I do this simply by measuring over from the center front/back fold.

STEP 6: Add seam allowance to all your pieces.  I usually use 1/4" or 3/8" on knit fabric when I have already tweaked the pattern for fit.  Since I wanted a 3-inch elastic waistband and my skirt block only allows for a 2-inch waistband, I marked 1 inch lower on the waist to remind myself to cut there.  Your four pattern pieces will look something like this:

Hello, Toes!

Cut and Assemble Skirt
You probably already know how to do this because you've made this skirt before, but I'll walk through the steps in order to highlight how to sew this new shape.

STEP 1: Cut skirt and waistband pieces.  If you aren't sure which side of a solid knit/jersey fabric is the "right" side, hold onto the selvedge sides and pull across the cut edge.  The fabric will roll to the right side.  If you are using 3" elastic, the size of the waistband will be (your waist + 3/4") x 7".  For 2" elastic, the width will be 5". This allows for a 1/4 - 3/8" seam allowance plus a touch extra.

For my waistband, I wanted the color block design to carry through the waistband.  I cut four pieces (center front, center back, two sides) and just measured the top of the skirt color block pieces to know how wide to make each section.

Note: Place a mark at the hip line on your center front/back, and side front/back pieces.  This will make it easier to match up the skirt pieces in the next step.

STEP 2: Pin and sew front/back side pieces to front/back center pieces.  This step might feel wrong when you are doing it, as you'll be matching a concave curve to a convex curve.  Pin the hip mark first, then top and bottom, then the rest.  Feel free to use a lot of pins on the curves (I did).  You'll notice that the fabric won't lie flat - that's okay (see third photo).  As long as the fabric is flat within your seam allowance (this is why having a small seam allowance is helpful), all will be well in the end.

If you have a walking foot, this is a good time to use it.  I like to sew with a long stitch on my regular sewing machine then serge over the seam with my serger.

Press seams - this should take out any remaining ripples.

STEP 3: Pin and sew side seams.  Place front section on back section, right sides together, matching hip marks.  Pin and sew with long stretch stitch on sewing machine or with overlock stitch on the serger.

STEP 4: Sew waistband.  Fold waistband right sides together, matching short sides.  Pin and sew.  Press seam open or to one side.  Fold waistband in half along long side and press.

STEP 5: Attach waistband.  Divide skirt into 8 equal sections and mark with pins.  Divide waistband into 3 equal sections and mark with pins.  Place waistband over skirt, right sides together matching pins.  Pin in place.  I like to have the waistband seam at center back.  Sew around waistband leaving a 2-3 inch opening at center back to insert your elastic.  You may need to stretch the waistband slightly as you sew to match the skirt.

If you have a color block waistband, then you'll simply need to match up the sections.

STEP 6:  Cut and insert elastic.  Hold elastic around your waist to determine how long you want it.  The elastic should be slightly stretched.  Overlap by 1/4 - 3/8" for seam allowance.  Attach a safety pin to each end.  Use one safety pin to feed the elastic through the waistband and use the second safety pin to secure the other end to the skirt (so that you don't accidentally pull it all the way through - very annoying).  This is harder to do with 3" elastic, but you'll get there.  Once the elastic is all the way through, overlap the ends and pin.  Sew ends together with a zig-zag stitch and trim off excess elastic.

STEP 7: Finish skirt.  Pin opening on the waistband to the skirt and finish this seam.  Try on the skirt and determine where you would like the hem.  Fold and press hem allowance and stitch the hem.  You can stitch the hem with a straight stitch, zig-zag stitch, blind stitch, or coverstitch (I used the coverstitch on my serger). Now put on the skirt and feel curvy!

I don't know why I am looking up, unless I'm worried about
bird poop - that tree behind me is full of birds.

My attempt at looking curvy.

And finally a word on the fabric I used.  I bought this ponte knit over a year ago from GorgeousFabrics.com thinking it would make a fun pencil skirt.  When it arrived, I liked it, but the thought of that bold, strong print swaddling my lower half was too much.  It sat around in my stash and I'd look at it every now and again and think, "How do I tame you?"  Finally this design idea came to me.  It was a "duh" moment (no angels singing opera) since I've seen about a million color block options online and this silhouette has been in my arsenal for a while now.  But I'll take "duh" for inspiration.  The black fabric came from GorgeousFabrics.com and you can find it here.  I lined the skirt with a black knit tricot that I also purchased from GorgeousFabrics.com (this isn't in stock but they have other knit linings).  I thought long and hard about where I placed the print on for the front and back pieces - I did not want to shine a spotlight on certain anatomical features!

Let me know if you have any questions and I'll add more construction photos the next time I make this skirt - I'm already scheming to make another version with this fabric (ponte knit and yes, it was also purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics - you can tell where I do most of my online shopping!):

If you make your own version of the skirt, please send me a picture or a link to your blog - I'd love to feature it!

Pattern Hacking Simplicity 2580

Ugh, you say, "This pattern again???"  That's right - this pattern again!  It might not be worth posting except that I made some (new!) changes this time aroud.

First, a review.  At last count I have made this pattern at least 12 times, including at least one version (for a client) that I forgot to photograph.  I even made the dress twice with the exact same fabric (once for me, once for a client).  I've hacked it in various ways (see here and here and here).  I had one failure (see here) which I recently tried to fix recently by chopping it to make a top (we'll see if I wear that when the weather gets cooler).  It's a bit overwhelming when you put them all together.

But you can certainly say that I got my money's worth when I bought this pattern for 99 cents!

My last make of this pattern was for a friend/client from my bookclub.  Judi doesn't wear a lot of dresses, but she really loved the multi/brown rectangles dress when I wore it one night and she decided to splurge on some absolutely luxurious rayon jersey from GorgeousFabrics.com (sadly now out of stock - but you can still get the multi/brown rectangels here and it's on sale!).

She wanted a more flared skirt than the original pattern.  I thought about doing a slash and spread on the skirt pattern pieces, but then I looked through my pattern stash and decided to just use Vogue 8571 instead.

So, Simplicty 2580 + Vogue 8571 =  Voglicity 8571-2580?

The fabric was very lightweight and drapey so I underlined the back bodice with black knit tricot lining (the front bodice is already a double layer of fasion fabric) and lined the skirt with the same.  Judi wanted to come in a bit more under the bust (and I wanted to stop the heavy skirt from dragging down the bodice) so I created a casing in the bodice/skirt seam allowance for 1/4" elastic.

I like that the elastic give the dress more support without having an obvious elastic waist.

Next week I've got some new makes to show you, and I'll hopefully be almost done with my Elisalex by then.  Onward, Ho!

STOP PRESS: I just discovered a new blog on Victoria's 10 Thousand Sewing Hours.  It's called The Lost Art of Fine Tailoring, and the gentleman who runs the blog is offering a giveaway right now - check it out!