What's Up: Corsetted Skirt (done!), Coat Muslin, Fabric Surprise

What a satisfying week.  It's much more fun when I have actual finished projects to admire at the end of the week, instead of pattern pieces and cut fabric!  This week I finished Diane's two denim skirts, the corsetted pencil skirt and a regular pencil skirt with funky material.  I'm very pleased with how the corsetted pencil skirt turned out, which is a good thing because I had to work hard to get it right:

I want to make myself a version of this, and I think I'll use a thread with more color contrast on the topstitching to really make the corsetted seams stand out (Diane wanted something more subtle).  I also hope to get a tutorial in the next week or two for those of you who want to try it yourself (I need the tutorial myself so I don't forget what I did!).

The fabric for Diane's second denim skirt is a heathered grey denim.  I don't think the photos do it justice (they didn't on the website where I first saw it).  The fabric has a lovely sheen and feel, and looks almost metallic when it moves.  The heathering creates interesting vertical streaks and is very slimming.  I found it at MoodFabrics.com and last I checked they still have some here.

I also finished my coat muslin this weekend, thanks to a visit from Grandma Polderman (she spent hours and hours playing with the girls.  I now feel that I have a chance of finishing the real coat on time for the competition (the deadline is next Monday at midnight).  I'm so glad I did a muslin for this.  It gave me practice with the in-seam pockets and pocket flaps (not in the original pattern, so I had to figure this out and draft the pieces), it showed me where the coat needed to be altered for a better fit (hips), and I now know what changes I want to make to my additions (collar, pocket flaps).  I don't usually do a muslin for skirts unless I'm making something unusual (like the corsetted skirt); instead, I follow the guidance of a costume-maker friend of mine who suggests making the skirt with a 1 inch seam allowance so that it is easy to make adjustments.  I always do a muslin for dresses, or at least for the bodice, and now, for jackets/coats.  Here's a sneak preview, although I didn't finish the sleeves, hem, or add the buttons (not needed for the muslin):

The fun surprise of the week was receiving a box of (free!) fabric and a dress from my husband's Aunt Wendy.  She has a friend returning to Malaysia who is downsizing her goods and Wendy told her she could find a home for the fabric.  I received YARDS of beautiful silk.  Some lightweight, like these:

I think they'll make lovely scarves or flowing summer dresses.  And then there were a couple heavier brocades:

I love the grey/purple brocade with dragons and I'm already dreaming up what I can make with it.  Also in the box was a Chinese-style red dress.  Wendy wasn't sure it would fit, but here it is (and here's me, vamping it up with Cora):

This week I'll be finishing Melissa's skirt and then working on Jen's dress.  And I also hope to finally get my finished bags up on Etsy.  And then I'll rub my tummy and pat my head.

Fabric Focus: Linen

This is Part the First of a two part blog on linen.  I'm going to showcase some of the lovely linen fabrics I've been ogling over the past few weeks and provide resources for those who want to sew with it themselves.  In Part the Second I'll list some of the patterns I've found for for linen tops, skirts, and dresses.

If you have avoided linen for a while because of the wrinkles, come back.  Linen gets softer (and less wrinkly) with age and many manufacturers have started treating linen so that it is soft from the start.  There are also many linen blends available which keep linen's distinctive texture but give it softness and drape.  You can find linen with rayon, with cotton, and with silk.  And if you want a crisp linen and have the fortitude to deal with wrinkles, you can get that, too!

There are solid colors galore when it comes to linen because it holds color so well.  Linen looks wonderful in rich tones and in neutrals and there are plenty of way to embellish the fabric with topstitching, pintucks, pleating, godets, and interesting seaming.  Here are some of my favorites: 

From GorgeousFabrics.com:

Square Pegs Linen - True Red

Rayon "Linen" - Hot Pink

Glazed Hankerchief Linen - Bright Green

It can be difficult to find linen prints, but they are out there.  I have almost ordered this first print (also from GorgeousFabrics.com) many times, but I think it belongs to someone else:

Exotica Print Linen Blend

From EmmaOneSock.com, Etsy.com, and HartsFabric.com:

French Coral/Black Abstract Linen from EmmaOneSock.com

C. Steffe Pink/Sky/Black Printed Silk/Linen (semi-sheer) from EmmaOneSock.com



French Plum/Chocolate Scribble Linen from EmmaOneSock.com

black and white floral printed linen/rayon from Etsy seller CoursesWalesFabric

Wildflowers in Orange by Heather Ross from Etsy seller TheFabricFarm

Jenaveve Linen and Cotton Fabric Merlot Floral Birds by Valori Wells from HartsFabric.com

Kokka Echino Cotton Linen Fabric Turquoise Bird Floral by Etsuko Furuya from HartsFabric.com

I love the range of colors and prints available.  You can find something ranging from sweet to sophisticated and almost anything in between.  Which begs the question, "How many stops are there between Sweet and Sophisticated?"  And that gives me something to think about for a later post!


Resources for Sewists

I always read up on a fabric in the Fabric Sewing Guide by Claire Schaeffer before sewing with it, but if you don't yet have her book, there are also some helpful articles available online:
Easy & Elegant Linen, by Susan Khalje - I highly recommend this article
Sewing with Linen, by Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic
Sewing Guides: Linen, from Shannon Gifford at EmmaOneSock.com
Sewing with Linen, from SewMamaSew

What's Up: Finished Bag, Lots of Pattern Drafting & Cutting, Oodles of Packages

The most exciting part of this week was receiving box after box of beautiful fabric as all the orders I made for clients rolled into my house.  I so love fabric, and it doesn't even matter that it's not for me personally.  I'm just so happy to get to work with it!

In the mix: dark wash denims, heathered grey denim, Michael Miller Pretty Bird Ground Cover, Joel Dewberry Heirloom, some stretch knits from GorgeousFabrics.com (so that I can try my hand at some fancy tops for the spring/summer and add those to my repertoire), and the aptly named Happy Mochi Yum Yum India in Lemon (what a name!).


I also received a bunch of upholstery fabric swatches from a lady named Molly.  I posted an ad on a local online resource for moms, and Molly responded with an offer of free fabric!  She's an interior designer and had some spares, so eventually these will become clutch wallets and bags:

Here are my favorites:

Another lady responded with a lead for more, so I may soon have more fabric swatches than I know what to do with!

I did do some actual sewing, too, although I did more drafting and cutting than I had planned due to a delay in one of my fabric orders.  Here's my one finished project for the week, the Penguin bag that Melissa C ordered at the skirt party:

Cutting patterns and fabric is my least favorite part of the process so while I'm disappointed I didn't get more done last week in terms of tangible finished projects, it is satisfying to know that all that drafting and cutting is done.  I'm now poised to finish three skirts in the next three days!

My other main sewing activity this week was reading Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele P. Margolis.  I received a copy of the book for my birthday (my 42nd!  Holy Cow, how did that happen??).  It is wonderful.  I read about darts this week and how to move them as a design feature or to enhance the fabric being used.  Everything I read is super handy for what I do in designing/altering patterns for my clients.  It inspired me to shift the darts on Diane's corsetted skirt so that they match the curve in the front/back seams.  I'm so excited to unveil this skirt it in next week's What's Up post!

In my Fabric Focus post this week I plan to focus on linen, so keep an eye out for that (Tuesday or Wednesday).  Cheerio!

Fabric Focus: More Cotton Prints

I do love cotton fabric.  It is easy to sew and it comes in a huge variety of prints and colors.  It's crispness works perfectly for A-line summer skirts and can work for some dresses.  Next week I'll begin showcasing other fabrics like linen, voile, challis, and other good spring and summer fabrics, but I couldn't resist one more week of cotton loveliness!

Please note that all of the fabric listed below is available from a variety of Etsy sellers so I haven't linked it to one particular shop.

I discovered two new (to me) designers last week when searching on SewFreshFabrics.  The first, Jane Dixon, is new to textile design but she has worked as a graphic artist for many years (she also sells cards and prints through her website).  In addition to her designs, I also love that she is a self-taught artist and relocated from a warmer climate to the Chicago area (Go Midwest!).  Here are some of her prints:

Zig Zag on Grey/Green from Primitiva by Jane Dixon for Andover Fabrics

Desert Bloom by Jane Dixon Large Cactus Teal for Andover fabrics

Circles on Orange from Primitiva by Jane Dixon for Andover Fabrics

Wavy Stripes with Purple and Orange from Primitiva by Jane Dixon for Andover Fabrics

I had to show that last one again because I think it is just incredible.  It may be that my summer skirt is calling to me . . .


The second designer is Khristian Howell.  She's been on the fabric scene a bit longer and has collections with Robert Kaufman and Anthology.  I prefer her Anthology prints:

Wired in Love from Rendezvous by Khristian Howell for Anthology fabrics

 "The Woodlands" Cotton Fabric by Khristian A Howell for Anthology -Woodgrain in Teal

Theory by Khristian A Howell for Anthology fabrics

High Society Hannah by Khristian Howell for Anthology fabrics

Theory Vines Sierra by Khristian A Howell for Anthology fabrics

She also has this print that I may have to get to make little dresses for my girls:

The Woodlands Collection by Khristian Howell

What I like about both of these designers is that the way they use color and lines seems to give texture to the fabric.  And all of these fabrics are from quilting weight fabric collections so they come in other colors and with coordinating contrast fabrics.  Nice!

Fabric Focus: Spring is Coming

Or at least that what I keep telling myself.  It's sometimes hard to think about spring when it's the coldest it's been all winter and there is new snow on the ground, but spring prints give me hope.  I recently discovered a wonderful fabric shop on Etsy called SewFreshFabrics that has twice come through with a fabric I couldn't find anywhere else.  Here's a few cotton fabrics I've ogled lately in their store that make me want to get out my flip-flops and pretty summer tops:

Happy Mochi Yum Yum by Monica Solorio- Snow for Lecien Fabrics

Choma in Bermuda from Echo by Lotta Jansdotter for Windham Fabrics

Ruta in Navy from Echo by Lotta Jansdotter for Windham Fabrics

Pink Waves from Tokyo Rococo by Carol Van Zandt for Andover Fabrics

Impressions Capri from Modernology by Art Gallery Fabrics

High Society Victoria by Khristian Howell for Anthology fabrics

Wavy Stripes with Purple and Orange from Primitiva by Jane Dixon for Andover Fabrics

Take that, Old Man Winter.

Fabric Focus: Brandon Mably

You have probably figured out by now that I love things with a bit of pop or edge or umpf (I apologize for the highly technical language here!).  Something that makes the ordinary a little less ordinary, something that makes you look twice.

Brandon Mably's cotton fabric designs certainly have umpf.

Brandon Mably - Flora Grey

Brandon Mably - Bones Blue

Brandon Mably - Herringbone

Brandon Mably - Splash Orange

I love the way he uses color contrasts and the rough edges to his lines.  The fabric is beautiful without being too pretty.

I've seen folks using his fabric for kids' clothes (the dots) or quilts, but I think they would be great for women's clothes and accessories, too.  You'd need to be careful - a little Brandon Mably goes a long way!

I can picture these prints as a spring/summer skirt or handbag:

Brandon Mably - Bones Yellow

Brandon Mably - Scales Blue

Brandon Mably - Fish Lips Grey

Brandon Mably - Wrinkle Red

And for the super daring I can imagine mixing up some of his fabrics for a funky tunic, like this one I made from the Sew Serendipity tunic pattern (Amy Butler fabrics here):

I used the Scales Grey print to make bias tape trim for a skirt (see here).  And here's a sunglass case I found on Etsy from seller TheCraftQueen:

His bio (from www.brandonmably.com):

"Brandon Mably designs knitwear patterns for Vogue Knitting and Rowan Yarns, and leads workshops in knitwear design and use of colour throughout the world.  For over a decade, Brandon has been the Studio Manager of Kaffe Fassett Studio in London England, and has worked closely with Kaffe in the design, creation, and execution of knitwear, tapestry, patchwork, mosaic, and mixed media artwork. While working side by side with Kaffe, Brandon has honed his unique style of bold design and vibrant colour."

Vibrant.  Yes.  And umpfy.  Definitely umpfy.