I probably can't remember all of the changes I made along the way, but I know that the following happened:
- 1/2" sloped shoulder adjustment
- took in the top of the princess seam
- increased SA on sleeves to 1"
- lengthened the bodice by 1.25"
- reduced the side seam SA to 3/8"
- used my TNT pencil skirt (drafted from Studio Faro's worksheet) for the skirt
I used some of the skills I learned from Susan Khalje's Couture Dress class on Craftsy for the construction:
- traced the stitch lines and hand basted or pin basted the seams before sewing
- made the piping from silk muslin and 1/8" cotton cord
- stabilized the neck and back with silk organza selvedge
- lined the bodice with stretch cotton poplin, attached by hand with fell stitches
- bound the seam allowance in the skirt with Snug Hug using Laura Mae's tutorial
- used stretch lace on the hem allowance (and sewed up with a catch stitch)
- added drapery weight to the back vent to stop the corners from curling
The zipper was the last battle ground for the dress. All told, I think I handpicked a lapped zipper three times and a centered zipper four times. And every time it looked terrible. I've had success with lapped zippers in the past, so I'm going to say that the problems were due to the stretch in the fabric. In the end, I threw in an invisible zipper and I'm quite sure I won't lose any sleep over this.
I'm glad the fabric didn't become a casualty of the war. And that I only suffered minor injuries (pricked fingers, one ding from the sewing machine). And that my medal of honor has green flowers on a lilac background!