The thoughts, sewing projects, and fabric oglings of a dedicated sewist.

The Wedding Dress

1/17/14
Oh, I will always remember 2013 as the year I made my first wedding dress.  In 2007 and 2009, I birthed babies.  In 2013, I birthed a dress.

Photographer: Lisa Frederick, Angel Photo


Back in the spring, the friend of a client contacted me about making her wedding dress for an October wedding.  My heart started racing the moment I read the email.  Did I have the balls to take on a WEDDING DRESS when I had never even sewn with silk? Or underlined?? Or used scissors on anything anywhere near as expensive as vintage Chantilly lace???


Photographer: Lisa Frederick, Angel Photography


Yes. Apparently, I do.

Photographer: Lisa Frederick, Angel Photography

And Kristen, the bride, clearly knows how to gamble, because she trusted me to do it.

Photographer: Lisa Frederick, Angel Photography


Of the various challenging things I have done in my life, making a wedding dress most reminded me of what it was like to train for a marathon. At each stage of the process (making a boned bustier, cutting and sewing silk charmeuse, underlining, working with lace, putting all the parts together) I wasn't sure I could actually do the next step. I would study, think about it, procrastinate, think some more, make a cup of coffee, and then overcome all my anxiety by picking up the scissors (or the needle or the boning) and willing myself into action.



Photographer: Lisa Frederick, Angel Photography


I had back up, and that helped a lot. Rhonda Buss of the blog Rhonda's Creative Life agreed to be my consultant.  She came to the first muslin fitting and she made her self available by email and phone to answer ALL of my questions.  Every single one.  And there's a good chance I asked some of them twice.

Photographer: Lisa Frederick, Angel Photography


Dress stats

  • 1.5 spools of black Gutermann thread
  • 4 yards of vintage Chantilly lace from Supreme Novelty Fabrics in Chicago
  • 80 hours of labor - here and here
  • 3 yards of silk charmeuse from Fishman's Fabrics in Chicago
  • Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture book
  • 1 yard of silk satin (Fishman's)
  • 3 sleepless nights due to deadline that could not be moved
  • Gingher serrated scissors, borrowed from a friend
  • 3 yards of Bemberg lining (Fabric.com)
  • pair of wire cutters
  • 4 moments of feeling utterly sick with worry
  • a new found love of couture sewing
  • 3 muslins
  • 4 yards of black cotton batiste (Fishman's)
  • wrist injury (handsewing)
  • 3/4 yard Petersham ribbon for waist stay
  • waxed tracing paper from Richard the Thread
  • Vogue pattern 2237 (as a starting place)
  • 1.5 tracing wheels (the first broke, mid-project)
  • borrowed dress form
  • 37 nights of anxious sleep, spread out over 2 months
  • three irons (two died, one lived)
  • 1 Pinterest board
  • 1/2 package of royal blue bias tape from one of my thrift store hauls
  • 1 yard 1/8" piping for piping between dress and yoke
  • Couple yards of spiral steel boning (Richard the Thread)
  • gross of pins
  • 1 button
  • 1/2 yard satin hook and eye tape (Ebay)
  • The biggest runner's high you can possibly imagine.

 OFP-168804

 OFP-168864

 OFP-169082



A BIG thank you to my friend Lisa Frederick of Angel Photography for trudging out on a dreary day to take photos of the dress!  Thanks, Lady! They are beautiful!!

See more photos from the wedding on Outer Focus Photos' wedding album.  Brigette (Sullivan) Supernova does fantastic work!

Makeovers for Two 70's Dresses

1/14/14
I added alterations to my list of services for clients about a year ago.  I wasn't sure I would enjoy doing alterations, but I found I really do!  Alteration projects tend to be fairly quick (1-3 hours) so they balance out my longer bespoke work.  And I love how happy I can make someone by making something fit them well.

One of my clients loves 70's vintage garments.  It can be hard to find vintage items that 1) you love, 2) are in good condition, and 3) fit you well.  If you find something that meets two out of three of those conditions you are in good shape.  Carrie brought me two dresses that she had purchased from an online vintage seller. One of the dresses met two of those conditions (she loved the fabric/style and it was in good condition) and the other met only one (she loved the fabric/style).

Dress #1





This first dress was in great condition.  I love the funky print and the zipper closure and the pointy collar.
 

But the dress was at least two sizes too big and generally shapeless - I know 70's dress often are a bit shapeless, but this did not flatter Carrie at all.

Dress #2


Dress #2 great color/print mixing and a nice style, but it was too long, about a size too big, and something had munched on the fabric in a few places.

For Dress #1, I pinned front and back darts and took in the side seams until the fit was good for Carrie.



I marked my pins on the inside with tailor's chalk then pinned to compare/adjust to get the darts and side seams even (same length, same width, symmetrical placement).


And the sack-with-potential became a nicely fitting dress while maintained the general styling from that era:


I had to make sure that the print matched across the new darts/seamlines
otherwise the dress would look like it had had a few drinks!

Dress #2 took more work to get it into shape.  I started by shortening the dress by about four inches.  This gave me some excess fabric, and I used what I cut off the hem to patch the holes in the dress.  Then I pinned the princess seams until the fit was better for Carrie.  Taking these in was a bit more complicated because I had to open up parts of the waist and sleeve seams to adjust the princess seam properly.  

Dress length now hits just at the knee instead of mid-calf.




It was fun to work with older garments and see how they were put together.  And I'm glad that they will get to live outside of a closet again!

Stash and Scraps Gifts

1/10/14
I enjoy making handmade gifts for the girls' teachers each year, as well as for certain close family and friends. Our budget was tight this year (isn't everyone's??) so I was determined that my gifts would be made from stash and scraps I already had on hand.

I wrote about my day of cutting a mountain of jersey scraps into usable pieces for teacher scarves. That mountain of scraps eventually became a small hill of scarves:



I made about 25 in all before Christmas. Half of these became gifts for teachers, half went into my Etsy shop to see what would happen. When the scarves sold out in three days, I dove back into my stash to see what other unused pieces could be turned into scarves and made another fifteen over the holidays (infinity scarves make for a great "filler project" when I want to make something but I don't have much time or I'm too brain dead to do something more complicated). There's a million tutorials out there if you want to make your own - I found I didn't need one and just experimented until I found the most efficient steps (cut, sew long side together to make a tube, turn right side out, stitch short ends right sides together until I can't anymore, slip stitch the opening closed). My shop is full again and we'll see if things move as fast now that folks aren't looking for stocking stuffers!

The most complicated scarf I made was this one:



I've been watching Angela Wolf's Creative Serging course on Craftsy, and I wanted to try out a technique I'd seen there. I used the rolled hem stitch on my serger to make faux piping at the seams and in a couple other random places. I like the effect! I want to try it again with specialty thread, but I've got to wait - that stuff is pricey! I've been stalking the Sew It's For Sale yahoo group, but someone always beats me to the wooly nylon thread that I want. I hate being out-stalked like that.

I made one garment gift this year, a dress for my best friend. We wear the same size so we periodically trade clothes. This dress is one of mine that I gave to Malinda a few years ago. It's a simple throw-on summer dress. I brought it back with me this summer with the intention of making a pattern from the old dress. It's an odd project for the middle of winter, but I suddenly got a bug up my butt to tackle it.

Old dress:



I used the same combination of the rub-off and pin through methods that I've used before from Steffani Lincecum's book.  This dress was particularly easy to copy because there's only three pattern pieces: front bodice, back bodice, and front/back skirt.  The dress has some darts to shape it a bit, but no closure - you just slip in on over your head.  I used some rayon challis from my stash to make it up for Malinda:


 I think it looks better with a belt, but doesn't almost everything??



I did a rolled hem on the serger for the hem, and used another tip from the Creative Serging class. The fabric was so thin and floaty that my test didn't look very good. I pressed the hem under by 1/4" so that I could serge through two layers, and it made all the difference. Thanks, Angela!!



I did a simple turn-and-stitch hem on the sleeves and then finished the neckline with bias tape I made from another rayon challis in my stash. I love the purple surprise on the inside!


Since we're the same basic size, I do confess I made a version of this dress for myself as well (from the purple fabric that I used for the bias tape). But I'll wait to showcase that one when I can wear it with strappy sandals outside. While the dress would really pop against the snow, I think my blue toes and pained expression would probably ruin the look.

Blog Claiming

1/6/14
<a href="http://www.bloglovin.com/blog/10384809/?claim=a3ybyt9u8pd">Follow my blog with Bloglovin</a>

There you go.  I'm claimin' it.  I think I was supposed to do this some time ago, but whatever.  Here I am - follow me!

Cozy Times

This has been a relaxing holiday for the most part.  It started off crazy busy with a trip to Michigan for the Polderman Family Reunion of Tall People (Devon's family is mostly Dutch with a bit of German thrown in for good measure and I feel super short when I am around them).  Then back in time to spend most of Christmas Eve building the doll house Santa brought for the girls - seriously, I was up until 2:30am and Devon didn't make it to bed until 3:30am.  We are not very skilled elves when it comes to this kind of thing. Then after Christmas the family visited in order to celebrate Mooper's 4th birthday (the amount of TRASH we have generated from all of the unwrapping of kids' gifts is astounding.  Our recycling will be backed up for at least a month).

But then the family left and my final 2013 client projects were all done and we just melted into a PJs-till-lunchtime routine. I feel like I've caught up on a year's worth of sleep deprivation. We've had tickle fests and movie nights and sledding and a bit of crankiness and painting and alone time and a lot of lounging. And today we can't go outside because it's -14 degrees (with -45 degrees wind chill) and school has been cancelled tomorrow due to cold and it looks like this:


After a few days of laziness I jumped into some sewing projects for myself and the family (because sewing for myself is how I relax).  I have two girls' baptism dresses, two woman's dresses (one for me and one for a friend), and a top to share with you in the next stretch. And then this little guy was one of my last projects in 2013. I sewed it up for Belly's kindergarten teacher from last year whose baby is due right about now:







Mrs G was a wonderful kindergarten teacher - funny, creative, the right kind of firm, smart, and just cool - the kind of person I'd want for a friend in different circumstances. I've got my fingers crossed that Mooper gets her when she starts in 2015.

The elephant pattern is from the book One Yard Wonders, which is the first sewing book I owned.  The book is full of good projects for beginners, and stash-busting projects for the more experienced.  This pattern is super easy and takes less than 1/2 yard of fabric.  It's my go-to gift for new babies because the trunk is so much fun to chew. I haven't made one of these guys in a year or two and I think the next time I make it I'm going to add a seam to the head so that I can insert the ears instead of attaching them with a slip stitch (it seems like even a medium-strong baby could yank them off without too much effort). This elephant was made up from the stash of shweshwe fabric that my good friend Candice hauled back from South Africa for me.

I hope all of you had a wonderful holiday season and a good start to 2014.  Onward, Ho!

Peek-a-boo!