Vogue 8379 in Black & White

This is my third make of Vogue 8379 this year, and I've got a fourth and fifth already in the works (one for a client, one for me). This is heading towards a record, although it hasn't got there yet!

This dress was for my client Diane. I couldn't get a shot of her in the finished dress as we did a quick exchange while I was teaching a lesson, but I have some nice dress form photos.

This fabric is an ITY from GorgeousFabrics.com, called Wibby-Wobbly-Webby Jersey, and there's still some in stock. My first two versions of this dress were made from ponte knit, so it was different to sew with something thinner and much stretchier. I don't think I really changed anything in the making of it, except to be be very carefully that I wasn't stretching the fabric up to my machine (I have a table for my serger and I elevated the fabric to reach my Pfaff workhorse).

I did change some aspects of the construction, mainly in adding a lining to make the fabric less sheer and less likely to give away every bump. I used a knit tricot lining that I also purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics sometime in the last 18 months.

I debated with myself as to how best to attach the lining since it wasn't quite as stretchy as the ITY. For the bodice, I attached the lining at the neckline, waist, and sleeve hem. I attached the facing after all of this was in place. I was worried about the sleeve bagging, so I tacked the lining and the main fabric at the shoulder and underarm - we'll see how this works and I may need to re-work it if Diane has trouble. I added clear elastic to the shoulder and waist in order to stop the dress from drooping.

For the skirt, I attached the lining to the main fabric at the waist and at center front, after hemming the lining separately. I folded the skirt facing over the lining and topstitched it in place.

I was worried that the white lining might peek out at the side seam tie slot, so I attached the lining to the main fabric here with a fell stitch.

I like Diane's version so much that I plan to make a black and white version for myself!

One of the nice things about having made this dress for a couple of people is that I now have a little library of bodice muslins in different sizes. When another client contacted me last week about making her a version of this dress, it was easy to figure out what adjustments she would need. I've found that the biggest issue with this dress is the waist placement so that the bodice hugs the body in the correct way. I think the pattern runs a bit short in the bodice, although for Diane's dress the original waist placement was spot on (she is high-waisted).

If anyone is considering this pattern, I'd encourage you to make it up. I've now made it for both straight and curvy figures and it looks good on everyone!

Vogue 8379: Wrap Dress Conversion

I've never really understood the popularity of the wrap dress. I've seen them, I've liked them, but the shape never said "Wow!" to me. I know it's a classic dress and is said to be universally flattering, but I think I was always nervous about the wrap part - that it would fly open or gape or something else equally mortifying.

One of my clients wanted a wrap dress, and after looking at options and reading reviews on PatternReview.com, we settled on Vogue 8379. She liked the fuller skirt, the collar, and the bodice pleats, and I liked that it seemed to be a well-drafted pattern.

Vogue 8379

The more I looked at versions of this dress and worked on Gloria's, the more I wanted one for myself. And I already had the perfect fabric in my stash, a beatiful ponte knit from GorgeousFabrics.com that I had been saving for the "right dress" (I'd thought about and rejected at least three other patterns for this fabric).

So, first Gloria's dress.

I made a muslin of the bodice and I didn't need to make that many alterations for the fit. I started by cutting two sizes smaller than the pattern suggested after looking at the garment measurements. I lengthened the bodice by 3/4" (expected, the reviews says that the bodice runs short), changed the angle of the shoulder seam (took up 5/8" at high shoulder/neck, tapered to 0 at the armscye), lengthened the skirt by 2.5" (Gloria is tall) and took in the side seams a bit. We also decided to shorten the sleeve to elbow length and keep the cuff vent. And that was it!

Here's Gloria in her dress before I finished futzing around with the facings and hemming the dress:

Her fabric is this lovely ponte knit from GorgeousFabrics.com: 

I made my dress up in the same fabric but in different colors!

I really love this dress!  The colors are PERFECT for me: magenta, teal, and mustard yellow (they even match my logo!) on a cream/black/brown background. And the fabric is so wonderfully soft. Here's a close-up shot:

For my own dress I needed to lengthen the bodice by 1 inch and taper the shoulders the reverse of Gloria - from 0 at the high shoulder to 1/2" at the armscye. I kept the skirt length as it was (with 3/4" hem) and shortened the sleeves by 3 inches to elbow length. The only change I made to the construction process was to add clear elastic to the shoulder seam and the waist seam (this fabric is a bit heavy and I didn't want the skirt to make it droop).

And look! No back issues!

It even makes me want to dance!

A lot of people on pattern review complained about the facings. It seemed to roll a bit on Gloria's dress so I tacked the shoulder seams to the facing, topstitched the front facings, and added a snap. For my own, I just tacked the shoulder seams. I'll do more if I need to, but so far I've found that if I arrange the facings when I put on the dress, they usually stay where they should.

And what's next for me? Well, I convinced another client that she needs a wrap dress, so I'll be making her one out of this ITY fabric (also from GorgeousFabrics.com). I guess you could say that I've been converted when it comes to the wrap dress.

And then I might be done with this one for a while. Although, I was thinking it might make a nice top . . .